Heading off for a five hour drive to the mountains at Potes in Cantabria, to the Picos de Europa mountains. Feels like an early October morning. Bright , windy and freshly cool.
Each little town is a hub of busy activity with everyone shopping. The air smells of fresh-baked bread. Hard to find parking places. By 2:00 it will feel deserted. Commonly seen: men wearing sweaters thrown over their shoulder and loosely tied around the neck, wearing Irish caps. No evidence of fleece... Just sweaters. Feels Irish in lots of ways. Everything is named "O" something because "O" is Galician for "de". So a place might be named 'O Castelo' or 'O Lagar' which looks very Irish. We've seen a couple of pubs with Guinness signs hanging outside, too.
Just saw earbuds on someone for the first time and realized how we haven't seen them up until now. Haven't see anyone walking around with water bottles or coffee--- not a single person.
Starting about in Galacia we began to notice that slate roofs became common and slate is present throughout the landscape. It seems very similar to the slate we use in New England. One different roof treatment with slate is to place small boulders on roof edges to weigh the slate edges down in strong winds. As we drove from west to east the boulders were replaced with concrete shapes that varied from smurf hat to witch hat shapes.
The spanish are very road safety conscious. Everyone working along the roads wear dramatic fluorescent vests and sometimes full jump suits. Its a law that if you break down you must don a Fluorescent safety vest to be outside your car. The rental cars come with them.
In the province of Asturias now where the land is flat rolling cow pastures. Decided to take the Autovia because we have a long drive ahead of us. Nuvi is lost because the Autovia is new and she keeps "recalculating". Seeing progressively more pine and less eucalyptus, thank goodness!
Ok....from cow pastures to mountain gorges !!! The last 50 minutes of our drive went "straight" inland from the coast navigating an incredible gorge about 100 to 200 ft wide at the bottom barely fitting in the river and narrow winding road. The rock walls rise near vertical over 500 feet at least for what you can see. They don't seem to think guard rails are a necessity. We did see 2 ambulances pass us on the trip. Paul said he would pay money on an amusement park for this ride.
Staying on the only 4th floor room at Casa Cayo, at the peak of the roof with windows on both sides. The view of the Picos out our window is breathtaking. I feel like we are in the Alps. It will be chilly tonight.
Walked around a bit then searched out Sidra, natural cider that is the local highlight. We had to order a whole bottle...the only way you can get it unless you go to a Sidreria where they open casks and everyone fills their glasses from casks. 6% alcohol. A little sour; I prefer wine. (Did we mention that a lot of people smoke here; but thankfully no smoking indoors. :)
Walked around town which is focused on the tourist trade unfortunately (read lots of kitsch!). But you can still get the flavor of the authentic. Back at the Casa Cayo bar where Paul ordered the local brew " Vermut "... It is sweet vermouth, locally pressed and fermented, served in an 8 oz glass over ice with lemon slice. Switched to red wine after that!!! Obnoxious American woman two tables away from us can be heard all over the bar! I want to hide.
Bread, olives, nuts, sausage for tapas. Pâté for dinner. Ice cream on the street and then relaxing in the casa's sitting room (pix).
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